Paul Large 28/06/2023 Paul Large 28/06/2023

Burnout & Over Saturation, Does the Sneaker Industry Need to Slow Down?

Brands are continuously reaching into their archives and resurrecting models from yesteryear in an attempt to keep their momentum alive. From Air Ships to Gel-Lyte III remastered nothing seems to be safe.

Image by *Nike Factory Store Philippines Facebook Page*

We are almost halfway through 2023, and I’ve already had enough.

Recently I took a step back from posting and engaging with sneaker related content for a number of reasons, but mostly due to fatigue.

In recent years the sneaker industry has become ever constant with brands releasing multiple pairs on a weekly basis. This is no surprise in a world where AI can generate almost anything in a matter of seconds, purchases can be made from the click of a button and short form content is dominating the market,

We as the consumer demand instant gratification and it only makes sense the sneaker industry follows suit.

This constant barrage of releases has left some struggling to find the love for the industry they once had, myself included. I personally find it difficult to get excited for a release in today's market. There are a number of contributing factors to this, from brands lackluster quality control, early pairs saturating social media feeds months prior to release (something I do plan on discussing in further detail at a later date) to the constant slew of releases dumbing down the specialty of pairs and making it harder to pick something you truly like.

Now it’s no secret the brands we all know and love are profit driven businesses. I’m sure many of you have recently seen the movie “Air” which touched on Nike’s struggling finances at the time. Without these brands turning a profit we wouldn’t get the sneakers we love today.

I do however believe that the need for ever increasing returns from investors has driven the market to the state we see today.

As of Nike’s third quarter which ended on February 28th 2023 the brand had generated $12.4 Billion in revenue, which is up 14% on last year. For the last fiscal year which ended at the beginning of May 2023 New Balance had generated a total revenue of $5.3 Billion marking a 21% growth from the previous year and a record number for the brand. I decided to disregard Adidas in this comparison due to their ongoing issues with Kanye West and how reliant the brand was on the Yeezy label, as this has skewed the brand's perception and figures in recent months.

This ever dominating corporate mindset and the constant calendar of releases has led to oversaturation in the industry affecting almost all brands and models leaving few exceptions.

Recent examples of this can be seen in the form of the dunk, Jordan 1, 550 and the 2002r. All shoes which performed phenomenally on initial release, however over the course of time have failed to garner the same attention initially captured upon the silhouettes launch. Although brands are making record profits the pairs which were once instant sell outs now occupy the sale racks in stores. This dramatic 180 shows consumers disdain for the oversaturation of their favored models.

This has a negative impact on both consumers and the brands directly. Consumers grow tired of products at increasingly fast rates due to overflow of options and releases leading to new colourways and collaborations losing the luster they once had. The likes of Union, Travis Scott or Salehe Bembury collaborating on multiple pairs a year takes away from the desire to chase these limited releases as consumers know there will be another release in the not so distant future.

The brands themselves are not immune to the negative impacts of oversaturation. Although currently they are seeing record profits, brands are being left with excess stock on mass. This is nothing abnormal for brands of this size with Louis Vuitton famously burning excess stock from past seasons to maintain exclusivity. However in the sneaker industry unsold pairs will often be put on sale later diminishing not only the brand value, but the value of the product itself. If this carries on, we will see consumers not purchasing a product upon release with the intent of waiting for it to go on sale. This will negatively impact the brands bottom line and instead will have the opposite impact than initially intended.

Although the above is rather doom and gloom, there is however a silver lining in all of this for us the consumer. The over-saturation of the market and decreased chance of popular models selling out has started to see the return of outlet and discount shopping, meaning It's no longer uncommon for buyers to wait expectantly for products to be discounted before purchasing.

I’m no corporate strategist. It's clear however to see from all angles that the current rinse and repeat cycle is not sustainable. Brands are continuously reaching into their archives and resurrecting models from yesteryear in an attempt to keep their momentum alive. From Air Ships to Gel-Lyte III remastered nothing seems to be safe.

I personally feel that if brands do not find a way to overcome the current situation that it will alienate the average consumer. Very few have unlimited cash to burn purchasing each new release they desire. With the diminishing value of the product on offer knowing there’s always another option on its way, it may entice consumers to save their money and purchase something truly special to them. Typically this will be a product outside of the manufacturer's influence, something they may have missed out on in the past which in turn gives the brand nothing.

In an ideal world, brands would release fewer pairs with greater quality, detail and storytelling allowing consumers to connect better with the product and bring back a sense of meaning.

Paul Large 03/02/2023 Paul Large 03/02/2023

The Story of: Tiffany & Co

From fine jewellery and royal families, to the trademarking of a single colour, the Tiffany & Co brand is almost inescapable in the modern world.

With the recent announcement of the Nike x Tiffany & Co Air Force 1, it felt like the perfect opportunity to tell the story of the iconic brand to a new audience. From fine jewellery and royal families, to the trademarking of single colour the Tiffany & Co brand is almost inescapable in the modern world.

The brand itself was founded by Charles Lewis Tiffany whose fortunate upbringing allowed him the opportunity to found the company. Charles worked for his father, Comfort Tiffany, who owned a successful cotton manufacturing company. Charles worked for his father for a time. Starting at age 15 where he worked in his fathers general store, and later a mill owned by the family.

In 1837 at the age of 25, armed with a $1,000 loan (roughly $30,000 in today's currency) from his father, Charles Tiffany and his school friend John B. Young established Tiffany & Young opening a stationary and fine goods store at 259 on Broadway. The store would make a grand total of $4.98 ($153.96 today) in their first day of trading, however sales soon picked up keeping the pair in business for a while longer.

Within a couple of years the products on sale at Tiffany and Young had expanded, the pair were no longer just selling stationary and fine goods. The new range of products available expanded to include glass and porcelain products as well as watches and jewellery, both of which we will come on to later. Whilst the pair expanded their product range they did so in a calculated way, by sourcing their new goods from the local New York Port this allowed the company to sell the products at a discounted rate compared to competitors as they were buying direct from the source.

The 1840’s were the start of something special for the Tiffany brand, in 1841 Tiffany and Young took onboard a third investor in the company, a gentleman by the name of J. L. Ellis. Ellis allowed for a nationwide reach for the brand as brought on board capital. This allowed the group to propel themselves to the top of the American fine goods sector. A truly historical moment not only for Tiffany, but the entirety of the USA, the 1945 release of the Tiffany Blue Book.

The “Blue Book” was the first of its kind, the first direct mail catalogue ever sent out to American consumers, which Tiffany themselves say introduced Americans to luxury goods. The blue book is an annual release which features the world's rarest jewels, even today in a world where everything is online, clients can still request a blue book, which Tiffany has now been producing for over 100 years.

Towards the end of the 1840’s an unprecedented opportunity arose for the group. Amidst the French revolution many nobles and those of royal descent were looking for safe passage away from France leaving the chaos and revolt in the country behind them. This safe passage came at a cost, those looking to flee the country were well off and displaced, the only valuables they had left was their jewellery. Sensing the opportunity within the situation the group sent John B. Young to be the company's emissary in the capital. Upon his arrival in Paris Young started purchasing fine jewels and jewellery from the fleeing nobility and transporting them back to the states for distribution at the Broadway store.

This was the first time jewellery of such a calibre had been available for purchase on the shore of the United States, previously the American elite had purchased such pieces whilst away on tour in European countries. This level of craftsmanship or gemstones of historical significance had never been available outside of Europe or Asia.

With the 1850’s on the horizon and the group wanting to further expand their hold on the American luxury goods market, Charles Tiffany pathed the way. Tiffany proposed implementing the English Sterling Silver standard which is 92.5% pure silver. Sterling Silver had been used in Britain as far back as 1697, this silver is commonly known as 925. Charles Tiffany signed an agreement with John C. Moore a famous New York silversmith to produce Sterling Silver for Tiffany and Company, the brand was the first American fine jewellery distributor to implement Sterling Silver as the standard for their products.

With the introduction of Sterling Silver to the Tiffany brand the group saw the opportunity to create something unique. Prior to 1951 Tiffany, Young & Ellis had been distributing other jewellers works through the Tiffany store on Broadway and the now larger network of smaller stores. The group decided to introduce their own in-house product line made from Sterling Silver. With the introduction of the silver standard and the brand's own product line, Charles Tiffany decided to purchase his partners shares becoming the sole proprietor of Tiffany, Young & Ellis, swiftly changing the name to the one we now know, Tiffany & Co.

In 1953 after purchasing Tiffany from his partners Charles moved the company from 259 Broadway to 550. To commemorate the opening of the new Tiffany & Co store at 550 Broadway, Charles commissioned revered artist H. F. Metzler created the now iconic Atlas Clock which to this day stands above the main entrance of the Tiffany & Co flagship store in New York.

The early years of Tiffany & Co are filled with countless innovations and historical moments, almost too many to fit into one story, but you would expect as much from a brand that has been around for almost 200 years. Throughout the rest of the 1800’s Charles Lewis Tiffany accomplished many feats. Abraham Lincoln famously gifted his wife a Tiffany & Co necklace and earring set which she wore to his inauguration ball during the American Civil War. In 1866 Tiffany produced the “Tiffany Timer” the first American Produced pocket watch, in 1978 Charles purchased a 287 carat fancy yellow diamond which is still owned and displayed in the Tiffany flagship store to this day. It has now come to be known as the Tiffany Diamond.

Perhaps Tiffany & Co’s most notable accomplishments in the 1800’s were its redesign of the United States seal which is placed on the $1 bill; this redesigned version is still in circulation to this day. Finally Tiffany & Co also purchased the French Crown Jewels which were placed in Tiffany products and sold to the company's most important clientele. Of course Tiffany accomplished many other feats during his reign as founder of Tiffany & Co.

Unfortunately however all things must come to an end, on February 18th 1902, Charles Lewis Tiffany passed away. Ringing in a new century Charles' son Louis Comfort Tiffany took the reins of the company. Louis had a large void to fill, under his fathers guidance Tiffany & Co had flourished into a world renowned brand with stores in both Paris and London. When Louis took over he donned the mantle of Design Director, the first in the company's history. Louis as an artist himself renowned for his work in the Art Nouveau movement focused on more colourful and vibrant designs, something which Tiffany & Co draw inspiration from to do this day.

Louis tenure as Design Director at Tiffany & Co started in spectacular fashion, within his first 10 years leading the company the brand found two new gemstones, the first being Kunzite named after Dr George Frederick Kunz who was Tiffany & Co.'s in-house gemmologist, at the time Tiffany were the only retailer to have a gemmologist as a member of staff. Only 7 Years later in 1910 on expedition in Madagascar, Dr George Frederick Kunz would again discover another new gemstone, this time naming it Morganite in honour of the expeditions financier J.P. Morgan.

Between 1910 and 1940 there's no real ground-breaking or historically significant moments from Tiffany & Co, the brand did however continue to release numerous iconic collections and of course they sent out their yearly blue book to their valued clients. In 1940 however Tiffany & Co moved their flagship store once again. This time however it was not just a small move further up Broadway, Tiffany & Co relocated to the corner of 57th Street and Fifth Avenue in Manhattan bringing the iconic Atlas Clock with them. To this day the Tiffany & Co global flagship store stands on the corner of 57th and Fifth and has recently been renovated.

*Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany's*

With a new store came new opportunities, Tiffany & Co enlisted the expertise of Gene Moore an American Designer. Moore’s window displays went on to become iconic works of art in their own right, one of his most famous is shown above. A claw pulling a Tiffany & Co diamond necklace from the ground, provocative and captivating, it was no wonder as to why spectators from all over the globe came to view Tiffany’s legendary window displays.

The Tiffany & Co window displays really went international when featured in the movie “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” in which an icon in her own right Audrey Hepburn was depicted eating a croissant glazing eagerly into the Tiffany stores window display. This was the first time the Tiffany & Co store had been featured on the silver screen, with Audrey Hepburn wearing Tiffany and the store being shown to millions the brand grew to new heights of popularity post “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” release.

The 1960’s was a busy period for Tiffany & Co, with the release of “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” kicking off the decade, the brand kept the momentum going creating the NFL Vince Lombardi Super Bowl Trophy for the inaugural Super Bowl. Towards the end of the 1960’s Tiffany & Co would continue its trend of contribution to gemmology finding yet another new gemstone, Tanzanite named after the country it was discovered in Tanzania was found at the base of Mount Kilimanjaro. Tiffany & Co rounded out the 1960’s with arguably their most iconic design to date, the Tiffany & Co Keyring. The heart shaped keyring was assigned an individual serial number with the text reading “Return to Tiffany” where purchasers contact details were stored. The idea was that lost keyrings would be returned to the Tiffany & Co flagship store and would then be reunited with their rightful owners. The brand has recently relaunched the “Return to Tiffany” collection however it no longer has the same functionality it once did.

For the rest of the 1990’s Tiffany & Co evolved, hiring new creative minds such as Elsa Peretti who presented a more sculpture like jewellery model which largely changed the jewellery industry as a whole. The company yet again found another gemstone, Tsavorite, named after Tsavo National Park in which the gem was discovered, in 1978 Tiffany designed the NBA Championship trophy which stood nearly 2 feet tall. Tiffany went on to release a collection inspired by graffiti on New York city buildings from the 70’s, the collection was designed by Paloma Picasso, yes the daughter of iconic abstract artist Pablo Picasso.

To mark the new millennia the company founded The Tiffany & Co Foundation dedicated to conservation efforts. The foundation has donated over $98 Million to date. In its lifetime the foundation has sponsored the New York Botanical Gardens annual Orchid Show and research collection, an effort to stop fashion and jewellery brands using coral in products under the name “Too Precious to Wear” and assisted in the opening of countless galleries and museums dedicated to a vast array of subjects.

Perhaps Tiffany’s most notable act of the early 2000’s was working with Pantone, a company who developed an industry standard colour matching system. The two worked together to create the iconic “Tiffany Blue” although the colour is officially known as 1837 Blue named after the year the company was founded. Although Tiffany trademarked their iconic colour in 1998 it was not until 2001 that this colour had an official title and method to match the shade in the Pantone database.

Throughout the rest of the 2000’s and 2010’s Tiffany focused on sustainability and longevity, hiring their first Chief Sustainability Officer in 2015 pledging to begin operating net-zero greenhouse gas emissions by 2050. Furthering their mission of conservation in 2017 Tiffany & Co launched the “Save the Wild” Collection in which 100% of the profits were donated to the Wildlife Conservation Network, sales from the collection allowed Tiffany & Co to pledge $4 Million in donations by 2019.

Although the brand seemed stronger than ever coming into the 2020’s the ever-present monopoly that is the Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy Group (LVMH) approached to purchase the company. LVMH offered Tiffany & Co shareholders $16.6 Billion or $135 per share for the rights to Tiffany & Co. The deal was agreed however with the effects of the Covid-19 pandemic LVMH tried to revoke the deal with the company. The two went to court over the matter and LVMH acquired Tiffany & Co for the discount rate of $15.8 Billion.

*Tiffany & Co Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711*

Since the LVMH acquisition Tiffany & Co has been captained by Bernard Arnault's 30 year old son and potential heir, Alexandre Arnault. Alexandre was tasked with bringing the Tiffany brand to a younger audience, before the takeover Tiffany & Co was a brand stuck in the past, the brand had not made any significant efforts forward and was trading on their longstanding name and history. The Arnault's have a longstanding record of bringing heritage brands to the modern consumer, whether this is a positive or not however depends on your views of the brand and industry as a whole, the most notable example of this is the Louis Vuitton Streetwear era, although this in itself can be attributed to the everchanging and more casual views of the next generation audience.

The influence of Alexandre Arnault is impossible to miss, his respect for Tiffany's heritage and what made them so popular to begin with is obvious, working with longstanding partner Patek Philippe to release a limited edition of 170 Patek Philippe 5711 models which were directly available through Tiffany New York. Patek and Tiffany have had a working relationship since 1851 where Tiffany & Co agreed to become the first official distributor for the Swiss watch Maison. This collaborative effort between the two was extremely important as it demonstrated that although under new ownership the brand's previous duties and heritage would not be forgotten.

*Dnaiel Arsham x Tiffany & Co Basket Ball*

However bringing on board new brand ambassadors such as Jay-Z and Beyone amidst Arnault’s continual collaborations with the likes of Supreme, Daniel Arsham and now Nike it is clear the brand intends to cater to a younger audience, although whilst doing so it still intends to keep is core demographic that its retained for the past 180 years.

With the backing of LVMH and younger talent at the helm, the future of Tiffany & Co is almost as bright as 1837 blue, with the launch of the Nike x Tiffany Air Force 1 on the horizon it will be captivating to see what role the Tiffany brand will play in the LVMH machine, I look forward to seeing all that they have in store for the ever so iconic Tiffany & Co.

Paul Large 20/01/2023 Paul Large 20/01/2023

The Story of: Kith

Ronnie Fieg the founder of Kith has constantly taken the brand to new heights, coming off the brand’s 10 year anniversary back in 2021 it is only right we look back and delve into the story of Ronnie Fieg and Kith.

Kith, a brand synonymous with streetwear, fashion and so much more. From Looney Tunes and Marvel to Moncler and BMW, Ronnie Fieg the founder of Kith has constantly taken the brand to new heights, coming off the brand's 10 year anniversary back in 2021 it is only right we look back and delve into the story of Ronnie Fieg and Kith.

The Kith story starts with Ronnie in his early teens, at at the young age of just 12 years old.

Ronnie started working for his second uncle David Zaken who owned a number of shoe stores in New York named David Z. It would be at his uncle's store where Ronnie would receive his first start in the sneaker industry as a stockroom assistant. Ronnie’s adventures in the stockroom however were cut short after he fell from a ladder mainly escaping injury.

During Ronnie’s time at David Z he developed his product knowledge and already keen interest in sneakers and fashion further, working in such an environment allowed him to assess and identify market trends which would be useful in his later roles. By the time Ronnie was 25 he had worked his way from a sales associate to assistant manager and a turning point in his career and life was his promotion to head buyer for David Z.

As head buyer he was responsible for buying in all products being sold through David Z stores, this added responsibility was where Ronnie truly shined. A pivotal moment in Ronnie’s career was establishing an account for David Z with Asics, Ronnie had a love for Asics with the brand being one of his personal favourites, however as he once mentioned this wasn’t always the case. When Ronnie was younger he had wanted a pair of Reebok Pumps but instead his mum bought him a pair of Asics which he grew to love over time, this love for Asics played a large role in him bringing them onboard at David Z.

Through Ronnie’s business relationship with Michael McLaughlin who at the time was the Asics Account Manager, he/David Z were offered an official Asics collaboration, this inaugural collaboration between Ronnie Fieg and Asics would go on to span over a decade with well over 50 individual pairs being released to date.

Fieg and David Z’s initial collaboration is now known as the 252 Pack, the pack featured 3 colourways (pictured above) and was limited to 756 pairs with the quantities of each being split evenly at 252 a pair which is where the packs name comes from.

This collaboration really was a turning point for Ronnie, however it wasn't initially a runaway success and only sold a handful of pairs on launch day. This was however until an article was released in The Wall Street Journal, it turns out one of the pairs sold on release day was purchased by a writer for the publication working on a sneaker story.

Over the next year or two Ronnie stayed with David Z launching countless collaborative projects under both his name and the David Z banner, most notably his collaborations with Asics and a collaboration with Adidas spawned from meeting the president of Adidas, who visited David Z after reading The Wall Street Journal article with the intent of introducing himself to Ronnie.

The trio collaborated on the Adidas Superstar silhouette giving it a formal appearance and launching the extremely limited “Black Tie Project”. This collaborative effort was limited to 400 pairs and was initially launched at a friends and family black tie event which was a glimpse of the marketing genius to come.

After his collaborative efforts with David Z and a multitude of brands there was nothing left for Ronnie to accomplish within his uncles company, as such he ventured out on his own looking to make an even bigger impact than before.

Ronnie turned to a family friend Sam Ben-Avraham who was the owner of boutique clothing store Atrium. Ronnie initially wanted a stand-alone store under the name Kith (loosely meaning friends and family) however this idea was shot down by Sam. Instead Fieg was given the opportunity to open Kith footwear in collaboration with Atrium. The Atrium x Kith set up effectively allowed Ronnie to sell and manage his own sneaker boutique from within the Atrium business, this removed the up front store costs for himself directly and allowed him to build his Kith brand.

During his time with Atrium the Kith brand grew, becoming known for a brilliant selection of sneakers curated by Ronnie himself. Whilst working in collaboration with Atrium he released a limited set of cargo trousers which sold out on the first day. He released more runs of these trousers which continued to sell out, this changed everything for Ronnie and allowed him to seriously consider starting his own clothing brand.

Roll on 2012 and Kith released its first clothing collection the red and blue label featuring now dated camo designs in various cuts and colours. Although dated now at the time of release this was extremely on trend with the popularity of brands like Bape and Supreme at an all time high, further cementing Kith's influence.

By the time we get to 2015 Kith had become more than just a sneaker boutique and the brand had outgrown Ronnie’s shadow and his past work. Through collaborations with brands like Aisics, Adidas and New Balance the Kith brand had become synonymous with streetwear and the sneaker industry in general. It was at this point the Atrium store in Brooklyn was closing down and Ronnie seized the opportunity purchasing the building for his first standalone Kith boutique.

As we know by now, Ronnie’s vision for the brand was grand, from wanting his own standalone boutique to creating some of the most innovative collaborations of the time, when it came to opening his own store there wasn’t going to be any half measures.

Kith Brooklyn the brands first standalone store in place of the now defunct Atrium opened on August 24th 2015. The 3,000 square foot space was already a large improvement on the Kith x Atrium setup however Ronnie went one step further to truly redefine his brand.

The Kith Brooklyn store was redesigned from scratch in collaboration with Daniel Arsham a graphic artist who has collaborated with the likes of Dior and Porsche. Not only was the space visually appealing the pair added 2 other unique features which would go on to become staples of all Kith retail locations going forward.

Kith Brooklyn introduced both the Silhouette chandelier (a chandelier made from pure white shoe silhouettes) and the Kith Treats cereal bar. Kith treats would go on to be a success in its own right effectively becoming a spin off brand featuring their own collaborative efforts with cereal brands, however the launch of Kith treats was a dream for Ronnie as he loved cereal growing up and the idea had been conceptual for years, at last he was finally able to pull it off and where better than his very own retail location.

Over the coming years Kith would go on to expand at an exponential rate opening stores across the US in Miami, Los Angeles, Hawaii, Aspen and an additional Store in Soho. To this day kith has 12 retail locations with a new store opening on Rodeo Drive in 2023. Kith also expanded internationally in 2019 with a retail space in Selfridges.

Kith’s international expansion didn’t stop there, the brand later went on to open stores in Tokyo and a rather impressive flagship European location in the heart of Paris.

Over the last 10 years Ronnie Fieg and the team behind Kith have constantly released ever changing creative collections both with Kith mainline as a standalone release along with the iconic Monday Programme releases typically limited releases or collaborative efforts with some of the brands long time collaborators.

In Kith's short history they have collaborated with some of the most notable names, not just in fashion but the world. Versace, Moncler, Disney, BMW, Tommy Hilfiger and more, I’m sure there’s much more to come from Kith and Ronnie Fieg over the next 10 years and I personally can’t wait to see what the team have in store for us all.

Kith will be a brand I always love, it’s amazing to see the evolution of not only the brand but Ronnie himself, as he’s matured the collections and releases have become more refined more tasteful, recently Kith has really hit its stride I can’t wait to see what Ronnie does next in the story of Kith.

Paul Large 10/01/2023 Paul Large 10/01/2023

Top 5 Sneakers of 2022

Moving into 2023 I thought I would not only let the dust settle on a brilliant year for sneakers, but also give myself time to truly think about my favourite releases from the last 12 months. All so I can give an explanation behind my choices as the vast majority will think I’ve gone mad, thankfully individuality is the name of this game and considering your reading this I would like to think you somewhat value my opinion.

#5 Air Jordan 1 High OG “Lost and Found”

If this didn’t factor into my top 5 of the year I couldn’t really call myself a sneakerhead. Possibly the most iconic model of all time, the lost and found took the Jordan 1 and gave it the vintage treatment. When talking about shoe of the year “SOTY” I think it’s important to touch on the packaging as this plays a big part in the storytelling of the product. Nike went all out with the lost and found theming on these, from the mismatched box lid to the original receipt the small touches really set this latest rendition apart from previous Chicago retros to me, which is why they make my top 5 for this year.

#4 Nike SB Dunk High “Pass-Port”

Potentially a forgotten release of the year for many, the Pass-Port dunk highs are on the most unique SB’s in recent time. The hiking boot influence is fairly obvious from the get go, from the colourway to the additional pull tabs on the tongue and heel all adding to the aesthetic.

#3 Kith x New Balance 990v3 “Daytona”

Now to those of you that know me my fondness for Kith is no secret, it was only a matter of time until one of their products made it onto this list (it’s not the only one either). Coming off a hot 2021 New Balance came out swinging in 2022 with collaborations from the likes of Salehe Bembury, Joefreshgoods and thisisneverthat. However the Kith anniversary pack released for the 40th anniversary of the 990 silhouette and the 10th anniversary of Kith itself really stood out to me, especially the 990v3 Daytona. The buttery materials and classic colourway originally featured on the New Balance 1600 came together to create what in my mind is a modern day classic.

#2 Jordan 1 Retro Low OG “Zion Williamson Voodoo”

The Jordan 1 Low has been hot for a while now, with a slew of Travis Scott collaborations and eye-catching colourways it seems the J1 Low has been everywhere in recent time. The Zion Voodoo however feels like a breath of fresh air to me with this model. No copy paste colourways or backwards swoosh here (except for the mini one on the mudguard). It’s the little details that make this shoe for me. The text under the heel tab on both shoes, the upside down Nike Air tag on the tongue and I can’t forget the stitching details on the mid panel and swoosh along with the voodoo mascot towards the heel of the shoe. The added details and usage of materials on these really elevate them in my eyes, with a backwards swoosh these would have taken off, instead many overlooked these and I think they’ll be a future classic.

#1 Asics EX89 x Kith

The Asics EX89, a shoe many have most likely never seen nor heard of. Asics ongoing collaborative work with Ronnie Fieg and Kith rarely fails to deliver, the EX89 is no exception. Following a similar story of creation to the New Balance 550 being pulled from the archives to be reinvigorated by a long time collaborator. The EX89 launched in 3 colourways all given the Kith treatment with premium materials, clean design and Kith branding.

In the day and age of rinse and repeat release cycles with copy and paste colourways of the same silhouettes the EX89 feels like something fresh, nothing overly complicated but a truly new lifestyle model which can be enjoyed by everyone from soho warriors to parents on an afternoon walk. With the initial release of the Kith EX89 pack being as shambolic as they come with the ever controversial Kith app I hope 2023 brings more variation to the EX89 and ultimately more availability so everyone gets the chance to pick a pair up for themselves.

Paul Large 09/11/2022 Paul Large 09/11/2022

Offspring, Footpatrol & Crep City, a busy weekend for Sneakerheads

This past weekend was a busy one in the world of sneakers, with heavy hitters like Offspring, Footpatrol and Crep City all hosting events over the course of two days.

This past weekend was a busy one in the world of sneakers, with heavy hitters like Offspring, Footpatrol and Crep City all hosting events over the course of two days.

The Saturday was Footpatrol’s 20th anniversary event which sadly I wasn’t able to attend due to train strikes.

The event consisted of multiple panel talks with topics of discussion ranging from community and design, to footwear and culture.

Footpatrol really pulled out the stops for this event enlisting the help of Will Stowe from SNKRS to host 2/3 panel talks with guest appearances from many others deeply involved in the culture, such as Bradley Martinez (Footpatrol), James Harvey, (The Urban Syndicate), Stephanie Hulbert-Thomas (Women in Sneakers) and many more from the likes of ASICS, Sneaker Sisterhood and Nike.

From listening to what people at the event had to say it was a brilliant event overall with great panels which really engaged the audience. It would be brilliant to see Footpatrol and other brands around the UK hosting more events like these to help connect to a new audience.

Everything in the modern world is taken online, these events which take the scene back to basics really helps new comers connect with, and immerse themselves in the culture as well as giving them a chance to meet those who have been doing this since day one.

Even with the Footpatrol event coming to a close on Saturday evening there was still more to look forward to from the weekend, with Crep City and Offspring’s real life Sunday Discussion only one sleep away.

Fast forward to the Sunday, it’s gloomy, rainy and really not sneaker wearing weather, unless it’s a mars yard overshoe! That didn’t stop people, the heat was out in force at Crep City, from reverse mochas to Neckface blazers attendees weren’t messing around.

Crep City at its core is a buy and sell event where people go with the intention of either picking something up or shifting something they’ve had for too long already.

Although there were some brilliant vendors such as Jimmy Shooz who specialises in old school SB’s having 10 pairs of Tiffany SB’s to his name, or the already well known Sneakerdenn who has everything from early 2000’s gems to grails such as the Union Jordan 1.

The rest of the event however was the same as always, the majority of sellers selling the same copy paste TikTok shoes following the latest trends. Now there’s nothing wrong with this, it’s what the market dictates, however as someone who takes an interest in the story’s and mythos surrounding a shoe, the overall lack of variety is consistently disappointing with the only redeeming quality being the social element of the event.

The ways in which I would improve Crep City are interesting but best saved for another time.

After leaving Crep City post lunch, it was a swift transition to the other side of London where we found ourselves in Hackney, a part of London rich with culture and perfectly situated to host Offspring’s inaugural IRL Sunday Discussion.

when I saw the invite from Offspring & Paq Works show up in my email I was elated, a big part of Offspring’s involvement in the community is their engagement with the consumer.

Although some have their reservations I’m a fan, and if anyone from Offspring is reading this I appreciated the invite wholeheartedly.

The event itself aimed to take Offspring’s weekly instagram segment Sunday Discussions, which discusses topics within the community and wider world to a physical location where we can meet like minded individuals and really connect.

Sunday Discussion IRL started with drinks and canapés, which sadly we misused due to a navigation mishap which saw us running behind by 20-30 minutes.

We did however arrive just in time for the main event, a panel hosted by Kaff (@kaffofficial_insta) featuring Kia Commodore (@ikeeyah), Franklin Boateng (@kingoftrainers) and Jade (@jademacj).

The topics of conversation for the panel were extremely engaging, ranging from financial advice from Kia Commode to sneaker culture and what it meant to us as individuals. Potentially the most controversial of questions being the correct name for the Air Max 95, 110’s or 95’s.

The answers for this were rather interesting however the best was “cause I’m from the streets” which obviously opened up the discussion.

After the panel we were treated to a full 3 course dinner courtesy of @msjoycek and Offspring. A choice of mains ranging from lamb, chicken and salmon to the stuffed butternut squash for the vegan/vegetarian option.

The food itself was brilliant, well presented and abundant in quantity with trays of sides flowing around the two tables.

The setting for the dinner was spectacular, a brilliant view of the London skyline amongst an intimate candle lit dinner. It really allowed for everyone to disconnect and get to know each other, obviously the free bar helped liven the already brilliant atmosphere.

This weekend really was something special, it’s hard to remember a time where so many things were going on within the scene.

I would like to thank Offspring for the opportunity to attend their inaugural event and I wholeheartedly think anyone who attend future Sunday Discussion will be blown away by the attention to detail and effort put in to the event.

Although I wasn’t able to attend the Footpatrol anniversary event myself, between Offspring and Footpatrol this past weekend they have really set a precedent within the London scene and even the UK itself.

Events like this, whether on a strictly invite only basis or publicly accessible it really brings the community together and allows us all to deepen our passion for what we love and ultimately connect with like minded invisibility.

Nothing was being sold, no agenda being driven, it was simply about people being people and having fun with sneakers again.

Paul Large 30/09/2022 Paul Large 30/09/2022

Omega x Swatch Moonswatch: A Masterclass in Marketing

Firstly, even the title of this article is a demonstration of the marketing masterclass on show here.

Most would assume this was a collaborative effort between 2 titans of the industry. This however isn’t strictly true, although they are separate brands both are owned by the Swatch Group who have merely used this as an attempt to revive 2 brands fading into irrelevance.

On the 24th March 2022 Swatch announced the collaboration with Omega revealing the Bioceramic Moonswatch to the world. Immediately watch blogs, influencers and collectors alike lost their minds as this was seemingly unexpected from the two.

Launch day came and went, hoards of eager buyers lined the streets for days prior all hoping for a chance to purchase their 2 favourites out of the 11 models on offer.

After seeing the droves of people lining the streets for the Moonswatch the company made a statement. The first of many contradictions to the initial planned mass release and availability of the product, announcing that customers would no longer be given the opportunity to purchase 2 timepieces upon release, instead they would only be able to purchase 1 watch per person on opening day.

Even with the measures put in place by the Swatch Group they were still unable to meet the demand on opening day. The lines of people specifically in the UK grew unruly and the London store were closed almost before they even began. The release still went ahead internationally mostly without issue however the vast majority of those who were waiting were unsuccessful in obtaining a Moonswatch.

throughout the next few months the watches restocked sporadically giving many more a chance to to obtain one. There was however still some degree of difficulty with this and still is to this day. The stores are unhelpful, they let the same people purchase daily and clearly have selected clients to which they sell watches.

it seems Swatch have taken inspiration from the wider watch industry with artificial unavailability and selective distribution. None of which would have been a problem if the initial release plan was followed.

Although initially released In store they were always meant to be available online, to this day they still remain on the swatch website, however all hopes of an online release were crushed by swatch CEO Mr Hayek who stated they would never be available to purchase online.

The clear u-turn on the original release proposal from the Swatch group is the true marketing genius of this project. They built the initial interest by making an icon of the watch industry accessible to all, then step by step made the product inaccessible.

it’s simple human nature, we all want what is out of reach, the fact we are unable to buy them online or in store makes us want them more.

Going forward these watches will be available, it’s only a matter of time. The market prices have already started to tumble and in turn so will the numbers of eager flippers lining the streets in the early hours of the morning waiting for the stores to open.

Wether this project lasts in the long term it’s hard to tell, however the impact it has had not only on the watch industry but also pop culture. It’s given new life to a stale and dull industry whilst also enticing new people to collect and enjoy watches, hopefully for years to come.

Paul Large 21/09/2022 Paul Large 21/09/2022

Upcoming: Kith BMW Part II

News just in, Kith are teaming up again with Ronnie Fiegs favourite car manufacturer BMW for a second instalment of their sell-out collaboration.

News just in, Kith are teaming up again with Ronnie Fiegs favourite car manufacturer BMW for a second instalment of their sell-out collaboration.

Almost 2 years ago now, back in October 2020 Ronnie Fieg teamed up with the legendary german car manufacturer BMW for a limited capsule collection including; t-shirts, sweaters, jackets and collectibles culminating in a special run of 150 real life Kith Edition BMW M4’s which entered production in 2021 upon the release of the new model.

With the collection being an instant hit and Ronnie Fieg being such a big fan of the brand supposedly owning multiple iconic models including the “Kith Car” (e30 M3) it was only a matter of time until the two brands rekindled their partnership.

I’m looking forward to what Ronnie and the Kith team have in store for us, in my opinion their best work comes from these unconventional collaborations with brands outside of the fashion industry. Most recently with Kith for The American Museum of Natural History collection.

Expect a full collection post once the cover has been lifted, for now enjoy this brilliant article on Ronnies personal collection which kicks off BMW Part II.

Before rolling out chapter 2, I sat down with BMW to talk about my collection and my obsession. We also discussed what it’s like working with the brand to create moments that will hopefully give people the same emotional connection I had growing up. https://t.co/QwwzP3yxcj pic.twitter.com/BI6Wk8id5G
— Ronnie Fieg (@RonnieFieg) September 20, 2022

Paul Large 20/09/2022 Paul Large 20/09/2022

The State of Sneaker Culture and the Industry…

Sneaker culture, it’s a phrase we all throw around a lot, but what does it actually mean?

Sneaker culture, it’s a phrase we all throw around a lot, but what does it actually mean?

“The ideas, customs and social behaviours of a particular people or society”

‘Sneaker Culture’ at it’s core it’s about people; everyone has an opinion, a belief and a chance. The industry is ever changing and constantly evolving, this is more obvious than ever in the current climate which is evident with the rise of brands like New Balance and Crocs in a subculture and community they’ve previously been overlooked by.

For new brands to take the spotlight the old guard has to fall. Adidas was on top of the world in the mid to late 2010’s from boost technology to collaborations with some of pop culture’s most recognisable names; Pharell Williams, Kanye West and Nigo to name a few.

Adidas was eventually usurped by the likes of Nike and Virgil Abloh with their collection “The Ten”, arguably being the catalyst behind the movement and very much a factor in the swoosh’s popularity to this day. But Nikes vice on the industry is starting to strain, with dunks and 1’s no longer an instant sell-out we may finally be seeing a change.

Now this is not to say that Nike or Adidas have “fallen off” but to say the tastes and trends in and around the culture have changed.

With that there will always be people who stick with their favourite brands or specific models through these times, due to this, such iconic brands like Nike and Adidas will never truly die. However the rise of new balance as a major player in the “hype” shoe game is something that could not have been predicted 2-3 years ago.

New balance has learnt from the formula displayed by Nike and Adidas, using the likes of high profile collaborations to boost their mass appeal. With the ever rising cost of shoes, Nike, being the most notable in recent time. The once incomparable pricing of high end new balance models, quality for the price point combined with the fresh and interesting takes from the likes of Salehe Bembury are a far better proposition for potential buyers.

The higher retail prices and economic state of the wider world's impact are demonstrated where shoes that would instantly have sold out previously are now sitting on shelves or bricking as most would say. Although this in part is to the oversaturation of popular silhouettes like the Dunk and Jordan 1 models, the migration to alternative brands is clear.

To me we are in a transition period in the industry, which many including myself have never seen before. With hyped releases sitting, iconic colourways bricking and quality control at an all time low, the future is uncertain. The shoes many consider grails today were on outlet racks 15 years ago, thankfully we may finally see the return of people buying what they like, when they like, of course, there will always be some level of hype or trend to follow it’s simply human nature.

But finally, it seems that hype culture is coming to an end.